WEEK EIGHT

today time was spent on the rafters for the roof of our sleep out the hardest part was squaring it off and making sure that all the single rafters were square we also had  to stand the wall up and braced then  to the floor using our timber to level each wall so that the roof would fit on securely we used "G" clamps to hold the roof in place in the afternoon we headed into the computer lab and finished off the pricing sheets which were then handed in we also had an assessment on the computer which we had to complete the following day we started the morning in the class room learning about the different ways to lining the wall up using the dodger a dodger is a 20mm block fixed to the top plate on both ends then a string line will be ran from one block to the other forming a straight line then we used a identical 20mm block to measure the distance between the top plate the 20mm is for the thickness of the cavity batten to be fixed to the  and the string line the block must fit with out disturbing the line at any time all the way along the top plate we to do this we used 2x4 timbers cut to size as braces fixed to the stud as close to the top plate and use this brace to line it up then used this same method to line up the front wall thus bringing our four constructed wall together then fixed packers along the side of the front wall and used them to hold the front wall to the side walls then fixed the rafters to the top plate and aligned them so they were all parallel once the roof was in place the fly rafter had to be attached to the top plates then we made out sprockets these make up the remainder of the roof they run from the last rafters on both ends to make up for the over hang  nogs were also put in place to make a corner so the wall cladding can be fixed on to something after noggins were in place we then had to nail our fly rafter to the end of the rafter and along the sides on the ends of the sprockets creating the safit of the building

(dodger is pictured above)

(above is a picture of a roof construction the fly rafter is labbeled)

(the picture above is a sproket)

WEEK SEVEN

Today was spent in the workshop finishing our saw horses so that we could use them to help elevate us when the time comes for us to be needed in a high place to fix the certain areas of our constructed building before we started any cutting we had to mark out the areas in which we were going to cut this came from a plan where we had to measure in from the edge of our plank a certain distance and mark it then we had to established the angle for the legs to be fixated on to we did this by measuring 20mm in and 60mm up to create the angle that was required for the legs to sit in a stable manner  (similar to the one below)

a bevel was used to maintain the angle that we had found from there we had to skillfully use our Saw to cut the desired angle for our legs to be fixed in to and using a chisel to chip away at the excess that remained  when that was all done our legs had to be in and shaped to fit flush with the top of the horse after the legs were fitted we then had to create a brace to add more strength and support to the horse and the task it will be fulfilling in this week we also had put together adrawing board for ourselves which consisted of three finely planed 15x145 planks which we glued together and kept flush on both the surface and the edges .to make sure that three planks did not seperate we used clamps to ensure that they remaineed in the position that we set thm to be at ,removed any excess glue and waited for them to dry after they had dried we used they belt sander to remove any glue that had dried on the surface and to make it completley smoother and even all the way through the board we then used a 15x 45 plank and measured 10 mm down on oppsite side to create an angle which we cut using the hand saw and made to triangular legs for the base of the drawing board we set them side by side and using the planner evened out as much as we could before fixing them to the bottom of our drawing boards using square head screws 

     (on your right is drawing board)

STANDARDS,CODES,REGULATION

BUILDING ACT

the building  as of 1992 changed from what you must do to what you must achieve
the objective was to provide safeguards for people from injury or illness, safeguard those particularly with a disability from the loss of required access tools,also made to protect other property from being damaged and the efficiency use of energy.The building act does not have any control on the structure, design or colour factors of a non essential building or the economical interests for the building.

WHAT IS A BUILDING


A building is defined as any fixed or non fixated construction deemed to be there for a night or eternity. Regardless weather the building  is used for people, animals, machinery and/or sleep outs such as the one we are constructing , this also applies to the electrical and mechanical systems attached to the construction to form part of it.They must have the necessary compliance with the building

NEW ZEALAND BUILDING CODE

A schedule for building regulation authorised by the building act.it contains legal performance based
preparation for meeting the purpose of the act, the building code also includes documents such as

ACCEPTABLE SOLUTIONS for those who prefer specific guidance. there are a number of acceptable solutions (they do no cover all aspect of constructions) which if used ensure compliance with the NZBC performance requirements.there is no obligation to adopt a particular solution

VERIFICATION METHODS
provide the means to verifying or proving compliance with the performance requirements f the NZBC
compliance with                            
New Zealand or over seas standards may also be used as a means of verifying performance

ALTERNATIVE SOLUTION
Any other construction method or element not covered by an acceptable solution whose compliance with NZBC has been  demonstrated to the building consent authority or Territorial authority either by test calculation history of use or other supporting evidence

NEW ZEALAND STANDARDS

standards are relevant to the design and construction of timber framed buildings
consist of three main types

ACCEPTABLE SOLUTIONS
which are standard of the type of wood and wood based products
the durability of the framing and the timber components that go with the frame
all the concrete masonry that don't require a design
and all the stucco plastering

another standard is that of which you must verify the material or product  so that it  will  meet the performance of the building code

the last building code is the set standards for the manufacture of or a certain material or component used

WHAT IS ??

JACK STUD
a jack stud is any stud that is smaller then the original stud on the selected  framing refer to the diagram below week six

TOP PLATE
is a horizontal timber member of the framing found at the top of the frame they are in junction with the studs

600 CENTRES
refers to the distance in which your studs must sit,so when your stud is introduced to the top plate the middle if the stud must be at 600mm.To get this 600mm you must first minus half the amount of the width of the wood and in this case we a re using 45x90mm so half of 45mm will be 22.5mm,you then take this 22.5mm  and minus it from the 600 centres you started with giving you an answer of 577.5mm this will be your first measurement out form the edge and then from there on you simply measure 600mm till the timber is no longer

WEEK SIX

Today we cut and mesured the sheets for the floor and fixed them to the floor joists underneath we first had to measure distance from on our sheets to line up then nailed the sheets in and created the floor. From this point we fixed together our bottom plate for the rear wall made up of one treated 90x45, after this was established the bottom plate for the side wall was measured out and cut.Along with the top plate which will contact the front top plate at a lower height by the roof rafters to put the roof on an angle. we measured the distance from top plate to bottom plate for to determine the length of our studs that will go on the wall.Today we finished constructing together the the wall framing for both sides., with the required inserts for the windows  started the rear wall measured our studs for the rear wall and also put in our nogs and packers nogs are to provide a the studs with more stability for the framing of the wall, packers are designed for one purpose and that is to provide a binding point for the rear wall and the desired wall in this case it will be the side walls

WHAT IS A LINTEL

 1= top plate                   

 2 = jack stud  above lintel         

 3 = LINTEL                                 

 4 = interior wall                                                                                               

 5 = jack stud                           

 6 = top plate for door     

 7 = under stud for window

  8 = stud 

9 = jack stud under the sill

10 = window sill

11 = nogs

12 = bottom plate

LINTEL

In this diagram the lintel is marked under the number 3 the purpose of the lintel is to provide added strength and support for the window that will be put in place there are many types of lintels however the most common one that the builder will use is a timber lintel (shown in the diagram above)

U/S(UNDER STUD)

the u/s is shown here in the diagram marked with the number 7 the purpose of the u/s is also to provide strength for the lintel above the under stud the only place  you will locate an u/s is underneath a lintel

WEEK FIVE

this week we started by perfecting our Pythagoras method both 3,4,5 and the square root method .We then applied this to our sleep out plan which we had already marked and set profiles for.Down went the sole plate for the rear and front of the sleep out followed by the jack studs that were used to level the floor of the sleep out, above the jack studs went bearers on both front and rear of the sleep out,boundary joists were measured and cut for the sides and also the front rear. we then measure the distance in between and cut out joist to fit in between the boundary joist along the width of the sleep out  applied "Z" nails to secure the joist in to place

PROFILE SET OUT FOR SLEEPOUT

DESCRIBE THE PROFILE SET OUT

(refering to sleep out)

profile set out can only begin once the building line has been established.We did this by taking a point from the boundary line and measuring in to a certain point, were  we thought would be fitting for the dimensions of the sleep out which are det out at 5.1x2.8  Once this was established  we measured out the width and the length of the building  out to the most furtherst point and also marked it. Once the building line was marked we measured 700mm out from that and set up our porfiles.These profile had to be a little longer to allow a nail to set on top of the batterboard giving a place for the stringline to be hooked on to. after setting up the profiles we then measured the distance of both sleep outs to be constructed along with the distance between them this gave us the measurement for  the edge of the building which we made noticable by running a string line along at every point from batter board to batter board to give us an indication of where these point will br and also to make squaring our builing off easier